Wednesday, 1 August 2012

30/7 Cannes & Monaco - eat your heart out Steph


Monday 30th Cannes, Nice and Monaco

We were fed and aboard the tender boat before 8am.  We found ourselves with the Hondurans and a handful of others. J noticed barges with firework launchers in the bay offshore – seems to be a major firework season here. We landed at Cannes and made straight for the station, passing through a local antique market on the way. The Hondurans (Alex and Helen) turned up again and showed us to the ticket office, where we paid 12 Euros each for a rail day pass.  (Firework festival finished yesterday...damn)

The trains all seemed to be in lateness as the French say. Eventually one came and we piled aboard a graffiti’d carriage in which most of the reclining seats seemed to be broken. It was about an hour to Nice, where we had expected to stay aboard and go straight to Monaco, but the train terminated there and we had to wait for another. This was only a 20 minute spin along the coast more or less at sea level. We missed most of the excitement and glorious views from the Corniche road above – getting occasional glimpses between the tunnels.

Eventually we disappeared underground and finished up in a beautiful station complex buried under Monaco. Everything was spotless and new looking. We headed down towards the beach and emerged in the wonder of a millionaires’ playground. The collection of “yachts” was incredible. Don’t ask how many metres they might have been – they were just plain Huge.


Put it this way, they all had garages built into their bums where they kept the jetskis and whatever other stuff millionaires need. There were few with obvious signs of owners but most of them were tended by staff and there were shoes left on the quay to protect the precious decks. Hosing down the walls and windows was a very popular pastime, as was polishing the gleaming chrome trim. They were nearly all registered in Malta or the Bahamas or the Cayman Islands.

We made our way past hundreds of such floating mansions and past a building site where they were excavating to build something underneath the foundations of an existing building. Up a few steps and we suddenly found ourselves on the road passing through underneath the casino. And of course this isn’t just any road . . . its part of the track for the Monaco Grand Prix.

We walked past the casino (yes it’s the scene of the old song about The Man Who Broke the Bank At Monte Caarlo) and found ourselves at The World’s Most Famous Hairpin, where the cars come down  and spin round a 3 leafed hairpin before they roar away along the beach front straight.
The tunnel

Hairpin bend



Model of race car

Pole position on the road with the remains of the finish line just behind the gray car.

There was no time to linger because we had to get right across Monte Carlo to the Palace where the changing of the guard occurs at 11.55 each day. This took us along the other main straight of the race track, including the starting grid. At the end they had a small go kart track enclosed with a couple of carts and 2 youngsters were spinning around there. We bumped into the Hondurans again – they had just come down the steep hill in front of us and were heading off towards the racetrack.

It was a sweaty climb but we peaked at 11.50 and waited at the back of the scrum of people waiting for the show to start. Fairly interesting but not riveting.  A bunch of guys came out from the guardhouse, slapped rifles with another bunch who marched across the square with a drum and trumpet, changed places and they all vanished again.



We wandered around the old part of town next to the palace, which was very picturesque in a Mykonos–without-the-white-and-blue sort of way. We managed to get a fridge magnet at a good price and struck off for the station.
Million dollar views


The remaining trains did not really allow much time to get off in Nice and there was nothing in particular there that we needed to do. And the French trains seemed to be perennially late so it seemed to be better to get back to Cannes and explore there. The train runs along the beachfront and we got to see the summer crowds enjoying a (somewhat windswept) dip at Antibes and St Juan les Pins etc.

We couldn’t find an internet shop but we found what looked like the centre where they hold the Film Festival. There were hand and foot prints of some minor celebrities and we found a staircase with a pretty tatty red carpet. Round the corner was another row of mega-luxurious yachts.

Cannes beach

They all have a castle on the top of the hill

We made the ship in time for lunch (until 4.30!) and caught and won the afternoon trivia with Hannah, the scatty Yorkshire girl. We had the 10 seat table to ourselves and Una just kept bringing food we hadn’t ordered. First the plate of nuts, cheese and fruit (sorry Tom) then the entrée of seafood skewers, several ice creams and a cherry slice. The food we actually ordered was very good too – prawns, lobster bisque, fillet steak (yes they CAN do steak!) and chocolate soufflé. Now we need to train him to fetch champagne. They had a piano/violin duet playing upstairs and just for once no parades or singing waiters.

We peered out of our window to see whether they actually had drinks at the captain’s reception. When we saw there were trays of cocktails we shot down and scored a heap, then off to the show, which featured a Rat Pack tribute trio. They were extremely good and now we are trying to remember the name of the 4th one.  Its so irritating not having access to the net when you want it.

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