21/12 Visas bloody visas

Wednesday 21 December               Visas bloody visas

Spent most of the day on skyp and email trying to solve the visa problem. Think we might have a solution? Also took an afternoon stroll to the Indian Museum. On the way, we got good close views of the Christ statue and a favela just up the hill from us, complete with a funicular track to get up there. With totally Colonial arrogance, based on never having been in a favela, or met anyone who has, or read anything about them, let me tell you about them. It is incongruous that they occupy prime land at the top of all the big hills and up the gullies down the sides. You would expect this to be covered in mansions owned by lawyers, trade union bosses and AFL players (Fevolas?) They tend to sprawl and clamber over each other – we even drove past an old factory shell that had been infilled with layers of dwellings progressively built on top of each other. Refuse and debris abound and when they recently decided to wheedle out a few of the lowlife they had to go in with large numbers of army commandos. Apparently there are free tours of our local favela and it is reportedly safe? The hostel has an information sheet which translates Favela as Slum. Apparently our local one was one of the first to be “pacified” a year or so ago and is called Santa Marta.

We have seen lots of derelicts in the streets in the main business district, sprawled fast asleep, often on sponge mattresses and with grey blankets. Not that you would need a blanket right now. They look REALLY dirty and neglected. There have been a fair number of 10-15 year olds too – usually sleeping in very public places and seemingly with one ear tuned for approaching threats, stirring and looking around very nervously. This was equally noticeable up in Salvador. Security is extreme – every door and window is barred, all yards and gardens are fenced with spikes, razor wire or electric wire.

We also noticed that some of the trains have carriages reserved for women during the rush hours, which is when groping incidents might be most prevalent, not that one has any particular knowledge of frottage. They had the same thing on one of the trains we travelled on in Malaysia.

There is a resident golden retriever named Charlie (why not Carlos?) who has a nice friendly disposition and tends to sleep most of the day when it is hot. He livens up a bit at night and J reported that last night he mounted (and that is the key word) a sustained campaign against one of the guests. Apparently he (Charlie) had to be fended off with cushions, such was his ardour.

Not that we are getting Potter delusions – but we do shower under the stairs!

Maria who works the front desk has had a rush of blood and signed up for 7 months on our boat the MSC Musica, which returns tomorrow. She has been at sea before and will be in the merchandise shop, selling Tshirts and caps etc.  She is totally excitivated about it.

If anyone out there is a Mel or knows a Mel, this is for you.  In Portuguese honey is called Mel.  Sweet!