We figured Oasis might be in town for the 8am sailings and we had a walk along the beach to the jetty but no such luck. We had settled down to have a farewell look at the dolphins when J suddenly noticed Bob near the jetty. It was almost time to head for the bus but we scurried down to the jetty and saw the last of the troops heading for the boat. That left Colin, who was clearly underjoyed to see us. He raised the subject of the luggage and let us in the back to collect it. It seemed that he might only have been aware of one piece and I would like to have been a mindreader as we extracted 4 bits from 3 lockers. We have just heard from Gordon that Colin didnt mention anything to them, which left them wondering where the missing piece had got to. Strange and a little sad.
By then it was time to pack and drag our expanded set of baggage down to a taxi. The little fellow in reception had remembered that we had told him that "Carlos" was in the largest bag and he pointed at it and said "Carlos". Nice chap.
We had front row upstairs seats again and the trip passed smoothly and painlessly. The landscape was pretty much plain desert the whole way, although there was a lot of (presumably irrigated) agriculture, huge areas of chicken farming under thatch, and a lot of new land developments.
They are lucky that their pretty smooth coastline has some high sandhills close to the water, which gave them some scope to landscape and introduce some terraced views. The lots would have had very impressive sea views. There were large areas of beach shelter and amenity fixtures, but no people. Strange for March when the weather is beautiful, its a Friday and only 100km from Lima the national capital. There were also areas of multiple restaurants, again with no sign of patronage.
We found our way to the hostel - a basically private home in a middle class residential neighbourhoode. A good choice of locations. All the facilities but no tourists around. We extrapolated Colin's demeanour by a factor of about 3 times to estimate Sam's and decided not to bother dropping in at the Oasis hotel. Lucky we couldnt get in there really.
Friday, 30 March 2012
29/3 pretty quiet
Very lazy day. Strolled way past the inland end of the beach past all the fancy new hotels and private houses/mansions. Not even many dolphins . . or perhaps just couldnt see them because the water wasn't its usual glassy self.
Wednesday, 28 March 2012
28/3 A room with a view (of dolphins)
We only booked in for 2 days at the hostel and the constant noise and dust of the building project have been an annoyance. There are only 3 toilets and 3 showers (only 1 hot) and the walls are paper thin. So we went for a stroll down the beachfront and signed up for a delightful room with a balcony up on the 2nd floor facing straight out over the bay over the palm trees. There it all is . . the fishing fleet, the speedboats, the tugs and the dolphins. Yes DOLPHINS. All day leaping and splashing. J fell asleep watching them. There is even a covered rooftop above us with chairs and tables with an even better view. All this for $25 a day including desayuno (brekky). The deciding factor was when we saw the sign on the bedroom door (wait till the pic is posted).
We made our own lunch again, strolled up to buy a bus ticket for Friday to Lima, walked back along the beach collecting pelican feathers. There was a largish, deceased sealion there on the beach. Phew that was where we turned around.
Room name and my new Alpaca hat
View over bay and restaurants
We made our own lunch again, strolled up to buy a bus ticket for Friday to Lima, walked back along the beach collecting pelican feathers. There was a largish, deceased sealion there on the beach. Phew that was where we turned around.
Another beautiful sunset
It's a very comfortable and attractive place. It never rains so there is no water hence no mosqitoes. Very few flies. There is hardly a wind but the air moves gently around us. It seems to be permanently body temperature around the clock. We changed restaurants tonight and had 2 course meals. Ceviche then fried rice with seafood; and fish soup then fried fish n chips. Not gourmet but very pleasing.
Tuesday, 27 March 2012
27/3 Ballestas Islands
Walked over to the jetty with a few others and climbed into 40 person speedboats with lifejackets (novelty).
Headed down the bay until the Candelabra - a Nazca-like engraving on an inclined cliff. Something like 50 x 150 m. Opinions differ as to whether it is thousands of years old or whether it might be as recent as General San Martin, who landed here to liberate Peru from Spain, after doing the same for Chile and Argentina. Boy was he keen! No wonder there are roads named after him all over S America.
On to the islands, which didnt take long with 400hp at the back. We spent an hour or so coasting slowly round the islands, looking at the hundreds of thousands of seabirds, all assiduously dumping guano. Apparently it gets harvested every 10 years when it's 60cm thick. If you dont like birds, there are sealions by the hundred, in the water, sunbathing draped over rocks, or basking on the beach.
They were interesting to watch flippering their way up the steep-sided rocks. Best of all were the mums taking 2 month old babies for a swim. The babies didnt look at all keen - heads craning out of the water and trying to get on Mum's back. Mum waiting patiently and offering a not very helpful nose when Jr tries to follow her up the rocks. Huge 300kg males flopped out on the beach.
Highlight of the day was when some seabird dumped sunscreen all over the Japanese girl at the back of the boat. A big splattery one - laugh, we nearly died! The guide told us there are no sharks or killer whales here which is why the sealions are so prolific. Can't imagine why there wouldnt be sharks.
By then it was lunchtime. The mini market sold us 2 mangoes, an avocado, a tomato, 6 small rolls and a litre each of chic milk and pineapple juice for less than $5. The rest of the day was devoted to researching transport and accomodation in Miami. Spirit airline are pretty vague about where they will be landing us but it seems to be Hollywood airport at Fort Lauderdale, fortunately only a few miles north of Miami, where the cruise ships sail.
Dinner at the cheap restaurants near the beach and we took coffee up the elegant end of the strip. The beachfront is very nicely done, with a 20m wide paved mall.
Headed down the bay until the Candelabra - a Nazca-like engraving on an inclined cliff. Something like 50 x 150 m. Opinions differ as to whether it is thousands of years old or whether it might be as recent as General San Martin, who landed here to liberate Peru from Spain, after doing the same for Chile and Argentina. Boy was he keen! No wonder there are roads named after him all over S America.
On to the islands, which didnt take long with 400hp at the back. We spent an hour or so coasting slowly round the islands, looking at the hundreds of thousands of seabirds, all assiduously dumping guano. Apparently it gets harvested every 10 years when it's 60cm thick. If you dont like birds, there are sealions by the hundred, in the water, sunbathing draped over rocks, or basking on the beach.
Jelly fish
Humbolt penguins
So many sealions
They were interesting to watch flippering their way up the steep-sided rocks. Best of all were the mums taking 2 month old babies for a swim. The babies didnt look at all keen - heads craning out of the water and trying to get on Mum's back. Mum waiting patiently and offering a not very helpful nose when Jr tries to follow her up the rocks. Huge 300kg males flopped out on the beach.
Swim said the momma sealion
Climb said the momma sealion ... all well till a wave washed it back into the water
Cuddles with Mum
He looks quite comfy snug on this rock
Highlight of the day was when some seabird dumped sunscreen all over the Japanese girl at the back of the boat. A big splattery one - laugh, we nearly died! The guide told us there are no sharks or killer whales here which is why the sealions are so prolific. Can't imagine why there wouldnt be sharks.
Dark pelicans here
By then it was lunchtime. The mini market sold us 2 mangoes, an avocado, a tomato, 6 small rolls and a litre each of chic milk and pineapple juice for less than $5. The rest of the day was devoted to researching transport and accomodation in Miami. Spirit airline are pretty vague about where they will be landing us but it seems to be Hollywood airport at Fort Lauderdale, fortunately only a few miles north of Miami, where the cruise ships sail.
Dinner at the cheap restaurants near the beach and we took coffee up the elegant end of the strip. The beachfront is very nicely done, with a 20m wide paved mall.
Monday, 26 March 2012
26/3 Paracas on the beach
Leisurely start. Delicious breakfast for $3 - 2 eggs, FRESH buns and jam, coffee. Coca leaves if you wanted. One block down the road to Cruz Del Sur where we had the FRONT seats upstairs. Not that much to see - desert nearly all the way with the occasional dip into a river valley where there would be quite intensive farming. Much more comfortable up there than we were the other night.
A couple of places where they were doing roadwork or measuring for long distances. Had to laugh - the truck in front of us was blowing over the red witches' hats and they were rolling away faster than the crew could stand them up. One after the other.
Passed through Ica, the regional capital - quite a large city and adjacent Huacacina - a lush little oasis renowned for dune buggying and sandboarding. But that avenue of pleasure was closed to me. We were expcting a 3 hour trip but they served lunch at 2.30 and it was another hour before we rolled into Paracas.
It is a fishing village and jumping off point to the Ballestas Is - an offshore group teeming with birdlife and sealions etc. a delightful little place. We strolled 600m downhill and exactly there was our destination and the adorable Alberto. Its the only hostel in hostelbookers.com but his approval rating is 93% and for good reason.
Guess who booked for 26 APRIL???? Oooh bugger. He took our unexpected arrival in his stride and showed us immediately to an empty room. We got the grand tour and the full rundown on the town and the available trips. He said - I will tell you my prices and you go ask around and use whoever you want. We can't be bothered - if someone else is offering much less than $10 for a 2 hour outing in a speedboat (apparently WITH lifejackets!!) then good luck to Alberto.
It was just about time to wander off to the beach, passing the souvenir and craft shops, the restaurants, and the jetty where fisherman were unloading crates of what looked like mullet into a freezer truck. The sun eased behind the mountain across the bay and a pink glow bathed the clouds, with silver edges highlighting a big chunk of the sky.
We took Alberto's word that it was quite safe to walk anywhere any time and strolled back along the beach. Stopped at a little stall/restaurant and had ceviche and a seafood fried rice (delicious) with mango daiquiries. We saw the owner go off for the mango and there was some firewater in there too. Probably a bit like their cappucinos - looks about right and tastes vaguely the same as the real thing.
We are well into the tropics - no more thqan 15 degrees south - and they dont have mosquitoes here!! Get out! And hardly any flies. This is a special place. About 240km south of Lima.
We checked the hostel scene in Miami today and concluded that the only places we would feel comfortable paying would be very unpleasant to live in for 6 days. So we signed up for the 4 day cruise to the Bahamas. Sadly the tax bill is $200 on top of the cruise price $400 but we figure we will have a better time than we would on shore. So we just need one night in a motel when we fly in and one more between cruises.
We are not due in Lima for another 4 days and we will very likely just stay here - a very very pleasant little place and a great place to kick back and unwind after almost 3 months of overlanding.
A couple of places where they were doing roadwork or measuring for long distances. Had to laugh - the truck in front of us was blowing over the red witches' hats and they were rolling away faster than the crew could stand them up. One after the other.
This whole region is desert. Somehow they get crops and vineyards to grow. Quite amazing.
Passed through Ica, the regional capital - quite a large city and adjacent Huacacina - a lush little oasis renowned for dune buggying and sandboarding. But that avenue of pleasure was closed to me. We were expcting a 3 hour trip but they served lunch at 2.30 and it was another hour before we rolled into Paracas.
It is a fishing village and jumping off point to the Ballestas Is - an offshore group teeming with birdlife and sealions etc. a delightful little place. We strolled 600m downhill and exactly there was our destination and the adorable Alberto. Its the only hostel in hostelbookers.com but his approval rating is 93% and for good reason.
Guess who booked for 26 APRIL???? Oooh bugger. He took our unexpected arrival in his stride and showed us immediately to an empty room. We got the grand tour and the full rundown on the town and the available trips. He said - I will tell you my prices and you go ask around and use whoever you want. We can't be bothered - if someone else is offering much less than $10 for a 2 hour outing in a speedboat (apparently WITH lifejackets!!) then good luck to Alberto.
It was just about time to wander off to the beach, passing the souvenir and craft shops, the restaurants, and the jetty where fisherman were unloading crates of what looked like mullet into a freezer truck. The sun eased behind the mountain across the bay and a pink glow bathed the clouds, with silver edges highlighting a big chunk of the sky.
Native hairless dog. Large dog
Pretty hey
Beautiful
We took Alberto's word that it was quite safe to walk anywhere any time and strolled back along the beach. Stopped at a little stall/restaurant and had ceviche and a seafood fried rice (delicious) with mango daiquiries. We saw the owner go off for the mango and there was some firewater in there too. Probably a bit like their cappucinos - looks about right and tastes vaguely the same as the real thing.
We are well into the tropics - no more thqan 15 degrees south - and they dont have mosquitoes here!! Get out! And hardly any flies. This is a special place. About 240km south of Lima.
We checked the hostel scene in Miami today and concluded that the only places we would feel comfortable paying would be very unpleasant to live in for 6 days. So we signed up for the 4 day cruise to the Bahamas. Sadly the tax bill is $200 on top of the cruise price $400 but we figure we will have a better time than we would on shore. So we just need one night in a motel when we fly in and one more between cruises.
We are not due in Lima for another 4 days and we will very likely just stay here - a very very pleasant little place and a great place to kick back and unwind after almost 3 months of overlanding.
Sunday, 25 March 2012
25/3 Nazca
We easily found our way the 2 blocks to the hostel. It was only 9am but the young lady came down and let us in, helped carry the big bag up and showed us straight to our room. She showed us all the key locations on a map and booked J on a guided tour of the museums yaaaay and the main attraction - the Nazca Lines. These are a series of lines drawn on the countryside that were only discovered when planes first flew over the region. (Incorrect - Peru archaeologist found lines & German woman found the first animal shape - the spider) Could they be the work of Aliens????? Woo hoo.
We had a minor nap to compensate for last night's fitful rest and a light lunch. J's guided tour was cut back slightly when the desk lady "suddenly realised" that I wasnt going and tried to increase the price. Cow. Nonetheless, she saw several sets of the Lines and a couple of museums.
It was a long walk through town to the last remaining museum - a very interesting collection of Nazca (pre-Inca) relics, including mummies, dried head/trophies and a very well-preserved aquaduct.
We have bus and hostel arrangements in place for Paracas tomorrow.
We had a minor nap to compensate for last night's fitful rest and a light lunch. J's guided tour was cut back slightly when the desk lady "suddenly realised" that I wasnt going and tried to increase the price. Cow. Nonetheless, she saw several sets of the Lines and a couple of museums.
I risked death climbing a rusty tower for this shot - 2 hands.
and this one, a tree that is so big I can't get it into frame, with lines and trapazoids in the background.
It was a long walk through town to the last remaining museum - a very interesting collection of Nazca (pre-Inca) relics, including mummies, dried head/trophies and a very well-preserved aquaduct.
Burial pit
Incan aquaduct - still performing after hundreds of years
We have bus and hostel arrangements in place for Paracas tomorrow.
24/3 going down
A lazy day generally - J has seen every monument, museum etc withing 100km (ooops there are another 2) so we just headed ino town to knock off the last 2. We found ourselves jammed in a very organised march by thousands of uniformed school kids opposed to abortion. When we got to the main square, there were groups of brightly-clad locals gathering to take part in another procession/carnival thingie.
We parked ourselves on a verandah overlooking a neighbouring square where several of the groups were assembling. We thought we had better have coffee just for appearances, and then found some interesting looking snippets on the menu and ended up ordering a trout ceviche and a nachos and guacamole, which we thought would be little snacks.
The cappucino turned out to be 90% hot milk and froth, separated by a thin band of coffee. They do like to serve stratified cappucinos here. Predictably, the first 2 sips took care of the coffee and left me with a glass of warm milk mmmmm. The guacamole was light on garlic but came with very large, blistered nachos on a large plate. The ceviche had thick medallions of trout that had been cured in lime and onion with more coriander than I would have put in there. It sat on a bed of the pickled onion and came with medallions of sweet potato and bits of corn on the cob. The Peruvians have HUGE corn. Each corn thingie was the size of a fingernail - you should see how big they get when they make popcorn! We felt quite stuffed after these two snacks.
By then the parade was getting ready so we headed them off at the entrance to the square and watched the first few go by. We will let the photos do the heavy lifting here, but suffice it to say that a lot of work had gone into the costumes and the dance steps. The dancing was old folk/peasant farmers dancing - very vigorous and accompanied by gesturing with the simple farm tools that many of them carried. The women wore pleated skirts that flared up when they twirled round. Most of the groups had bands and there was a 2 man bull. This was obviously a cultural tradition that was close to the hearts of a lot of Peruvians.
Bakers
Pampas grass hats
Bull fight
Mardi gras time
Traditional
More mardi gras fun
From there we split to perform our individual duties - I went to the bank to draw another heap of cash and J went to tick off the final museum. We sat around the hostel until 5 then went to catch our Cruz del sur (Southern Cross) luxury coach.
We had been looking forward to this ride but it was generally a large disappointment. The agent had booked us the two front seats downstairs, which face the toilet bulkhead and receive the main thump each time the cabin door is opened. The chairs were well padded and reclined almost completely, but we were both short of about an inch in leg room, which made for uncomfortable rest. The windows were heavily smoked and they suggested that we keep the curtains closed "for our safety?"
It was noticeable that we were all videod as we were scanned by the magnetic wand before getting on, and then the security man came on board and videod each of us sitting in our seats. This might be to facilitate recognitin of shattered and charred corpses, or to discourage terrorist/bandits who have been known to hold up these long distance coaches in the middle of nowhere and hold passengers to ransom.
We couldn't see anything and the bus soon took to rapid left and right turns as we climbed out of the hills round Cuzco. This continued throughout the 15 hour trip. The speed was displayed on a screen at the front and it was nearly always 35-45 kph. If the drivers got above 90kph the alarm sounded but this only happened 3 times. J was sick after about 2 hours and it was certainly a very strange and unsettling experience to be shaken around like that. The coach was very well stabilised but the direction changes were constant. Going to the toilet (#1 only!!!) was fraught with peril while you were standing up and urinating upright was totally impossible.
Dawn found us out in a desolate landscape of soft sedimentary rock that had been heavily eroded. Each ridge had adopted the shape of a hand laid flat with fingers outstretched and the road followed the contours around each finger - hard left, hard right etc. Moving on to the next ridge entailed a series of switchbacks to get down to the base level, then more to get up the other side. There was scarcely a tuft of ground cover to be seen, but at the floor level it was quite green in patches, with the odd dwelling, usually of adobe.
We arrived at Nazca an hour early and were so keen to get out of the compound that I forgot to ask any of the upstairs passengers how they fared. For me, the experience was a prolonged period of seeing reality through the lens of a camera that was being swung energetically from side to side.
We parked ourselves on a verandah overlooking a neighbouring square where several of the groups were assembling. We thought we had better have coffee just for appearances, and then found some interesting looking snippets on the menu and ended up ordering a trout ceviche and a nachos and guacamole, which we thought would be little snacks.
The cappucino turned out to be 90% hot milk and froth, separated by a thin band of coffee. They do like to serve stratified cappucinos here. Predictably, the first 2 sips took care of the coffee and left me with a glass of warm milk mmmmm. The guacamole was light on garlic but came with very large, blistered nachos on a large plate. The ceviche had thick medallions of trout that had been cured in lime and onion with more coriander than I would have put in there. It sat on a bed of the pickled onion and came with medallions of sweet potato and bits of corn on the cob. The Peruvians have HUGE corn. Each corn thingie was the size of a fingernail - you should see how big they get when they make popcorn! We felt quite stuffed after these two snacks.
By then the parade was getting ready so we headed them off at the entrance to the square and watched the first few go by. We will let the photos do the heavy lifting here, but suffice it to say that a lot of work had gone into the costumes and the dance steps. The dancing was old folk/peasant farmers dancing - very vigorous and accompanied by gesturing with the simple farm tools that many of them carried. The women wore pleated skirts that flared up when they twirled round. Most of the groups had bands and there was a 2 man bull. This was obviously a cultural tradition that was close to the hearts of a lot of Peruvians.
Bakers
Pampas grass hats
Bull fight
Mardi gras time
Traditional
More mardi gras fun
From there we split to perform our individual duties - I went to the bank to draw another heap of cash and J went to tick off the final museum. We sat around the hostel until 5 then went to catch our Cruz del sur (Southern Cross) luxury coach.
We had been looking forward to this ride but it was generally a large disappointment. The agent had booked us the two front seats downstairs, which face the toilet bulkhead and receive the main thump each time the cabin door is opened. The chairs were well padded and reclined almost completely, but we were both short of about an inch in leg room, which made for uncomfortable rest. The windows were heavily smoked and they suggested that we keep the curtains closed "for our safety?"
It was noticeable that we were all videod as we were scanned by the magnetic wand before getting on, and then the security man came on board and videod each of us sitting in our seats. This might be to facilitate recognitin of shattered and charred corpses, or to discourage terrorist/bandits who have been known to hold up these long distance coaches in the middle of nowhere and hold passengers to ransom.
We couldn't see anything and the bus soon took to rapid left and right turns as we climbed out of the hills round Cuzco. This continued throughout the 15 hour trip. The speed was displayed on a screen at the front and it was nearly always 35-45 kph. If the drivers got above 90kph the alarm sounded but this only happened 3 times. J was sick after about 2 hours and it was certainly a very strange and unsettling experience to be shaken around like that. The coach was very well stabilised but the direction changes were constant. Going to the toilet (#1 only!!!) was fraught with peril while you were standing up and urinating upright was totally impossible.
Dawn found us out in a desolate landscape of soft sedimentary rock that had been heavily eroded. Each ridge had adopted the shape of a hand laid flat with fingers outstretched and the road followed the contours around each finger - hard left, hard right etc. Moving on to the next ridge entailed a series of switchbacks to get down to the base level, then more to get up the other side. There was scarcely a tuft of ground cover to be seen, but at the floor level it was quite green in patches, with the odd dwelling, usually of adobe.
We arrived at Nazca an hour early and were so keen to get out of the compound that I forgot to ask any of the upstairs passengers how they fared. For me, the experience was a prolonged period of seeing reality through the lens of a camera that was being swung energetically from side to side.
Friday, 23 March 2012
23/3 Sacred Valley
Well its been over 6 months since we left and just about bang on 3 months till we get back. This morning we had brekky with a Pom who was on his way to Macchu Pichu, which would be his 4th of the 7 new wonders of the world. We asked what it was and it seems there are actually 8 and we have seen 7.
The 7 are the great wall of China, Petra in Jordan, Christ the Redeemer in Rio, Machu Picchu, Chichen Itza in Mexico, Colosseum in Rome and the Taj Mahal. This shat the Egyptians off so much that the Great Pyramid was added as an honoroury member.So we have seen 4 on this trip, which will also include 6 continents by the time we get home, although Africa is represented onñy by 2 daytrips to Alexandria. OK enough bragging.
J headed off on her 13 hour extravaganza of ruins, following about 6 hours yesterday. I toiled mightily, booking a bus and hostel for tomorrow and researching beach villages for later in the week. This left me time to squeeze in a 3 hour massage ($40). I started with a hard Swedish and a hot rock treatment (mmmmm) then the masseuse took a break and sent in a mischievous minx, from whom I was saved only by my iron determination and the chilly room. (Hmmmm)
Sacred Valley Tour
J writes: We had barely got above the Cusco hills when the bus stopped. Seems it ran out of petrol. What to do ..... flag down a tanker, fill a 10 litre bucket with fuel, turn your newspaper into a funnel and pour it into the tank. Guess what .... it worked and we continued on our way. Only in South America.
Interesting occurrence this morning - I chanced into Stephie on Skyp. She was frantic because the handles came off the door that separates the front of our house from the back. She needs to be able to shut Lissa out of the front rooms. We played around in words until she had the insight to switch to video and show me the pieces she had. In fact all we needed to do was unscrew one of the knobs off its base plate and the apparatus could be reassembled and screwed into place. A remarkable example of Trans-Pacific engineering.
We are going to eat in again tonight to avoid walking around in the dark and to use up some accumulated food. Last night there was a professional Pom chef at work in the kitchen, which was interesting to watch.
The 7 are the great wall of China, Petra in Jordan, Christ the Redeemer in Rio, Machu Picchu, Chichen Itza in Mexico, Colosseum in Rome and the Taj Mahal. This shat the Egyptians off so much that the Great Pyramid was added as an honoroury member.So we have seen 4 on this trip, which will also include 6 continents by the time we get home, although Africa is represented onñy by 2 daytrips to Alexandria. OK enough bragging.
J headed off on her 13 hour extravaganza of ruins, following about 6 hours yesterday. I toiled mightily, booking a bus and hostel for tomorrow and researching beach villages for later in the week. This left me time to squeeze in a 3 hour massage ($40). I started with a hard Swedish and a hot rock treatment (mmmmm) then the masseuse took a break and sent in a mischievous minx, from whom I was saved only by my iron determination and the chilly room. (Hmmmm)
Sacred Valley Tour
J writes: We had barely got above the Cusco hills when the bus stopped. Seems it ran out of petrol. What to do ..... flag down a tanker, fill a 10 litre bucket with fuel, turn your newspaper into a funnel and pour it into the tank. Guess what .... it worked and we continued on our way. Only in South America.
This is my new friend George (again with the western names - todays guide is William). He joined us at our first stop today - the craft market, he and his 4 sons are musicians. Interesting chap who sat next to me on the bus for the next leg of the trip. Fields of corn in the valley below. Peru has 55 types of corn, from tiny to huge and many colours from yellowish to black. Over 300 types of potatoes. All of which came from Inca times as they seemed to have tinkered in genetics.
Pisac (below) terraces and housing village above.
Pisac - each cave in the hillside contained a mummy.
Pisac township - the red flags on bamboo poles (below) indicate that alcohol is sold there. Pre literacy this was how seller advertised products. Green meant Coca leaves, woven plate - bread etc etc.
Great snake drainage
I love these souped up motorbike taxis
A real Inca king at the gates of Ollayantambo
The large buildings on the hillsides were food storage warehouses. Very windy spot, high in mountains. Tests have revealed storage would have been a max of 4 degrees year round.
Below shows a defensive wal l(one of the only ones at an Inca site) that was constructed because the Spanish Conquistadores were fast approaching. The stone work lower in the picture is of housing. Small stones used in housing - large granite stones used in temples or special buildings only.
Sun temple - never completed as over run by the Spanish
Mountains opposite Ollayantambo has 2 faces carved into it. This bearded face with 3 stones above head as crown.
and this more Indian looking one who is facing where the sun rises.
Ollayantambo - terraces rising to where the accommdation and temple is, with mountain range behind.
Chinchero women demonstating dying and weaving techniques
The impressive guinea pig house. All guinea pigs are extremely nervous in these countries. And these ones are kept right next to the stove. Eww.
Interesting occurrence this morning - I chanced into Stephie on Skyp. She was frantic because the handles came off the door that separates the front of our house from the back. She needs to be able to shut Lissa out of the front rooms. We played around in words until she had the insight to switch to video and show me the pieces she had. In fact all we needed to do was unscrew one of the knobs off its base plate and the apparatus could be reassembled and screwed into place. A remarkable example of Trans-Pacific engineering.
We are going to eat in again tonight to avoid walking around in the dark and to use up some accumulated food. Last night there was a professional Pom chef at work in the kitchen, which was interesting to watch.
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