We packed and loaded bags into store room. Final shopping wander but no space to put anything else. Really must come back here in private jet or at least with empty bags. Reluctantly declined to collect a tshirt featuring various vignettes of coupling llamas titled Llama Sutra, and tracked down Chico, the poodly dog attired in a camouflage suit that covered all 4 legs, full body except output ports, and even a ruched tube that covered his neck and ears. His owner graciously allowed us to take pix without seeking a handout.
Bus waiting - comfortable but not fancy. Only 15 minutes to the border where a helpful fellow on board had prepared us with forms and directions. Quite quickly out of Bolivia (such a lovely country and so cheap and such warm friendly people), stroll across the fence and into Peru. Last country in S America for us. A bit of a wait for some laggard then off again around the far bank of the lake. Spotted a southern cross tattoo and it turns out that 3 consecutive rows of the bus are Aussies. In general very few of us up this way. Flat land this side sloping down to the water and rich fertile soil. Lots of crops and farm animals. Locals in small groups stretching out string in loooong strands around pegs, then one of them winding a wheel contrapion turning the strands into rope. Very interesting.
The helpful chappie turns out to be Oscar the travel agent. He offers day trips for tomorrow and onward bus bookings. We gave him $5 deposit and he will collect us on Monday morning from Puno hotel and put us on a Luxury bed recliner coach to Cuzco. When we reached Puno he guided us outside and put us in a taxi at the locals rate, which took us quickly to the hostel without any attempts to tell us it had burned down but his cousin has a place . . . I actually gave him an extra Sol (30c) and he was very pleased and grateful.
The hotel was expecting us (there is hardly anyone else here). A lovely lady with husband, daughter allegedly 28 but surely more like 17? and grandaughter with luxuriant wooly hair. She gave us a map and a quick briefing outline of where to go and what to see, which turned out to be spot on. We booked half day trips tomorrow for visit to floating reed island (J while C does all the work like blogging - sigh) then (C&J) to ancient upright burial site where "there are mystic energy flows" . . .oooooh might be Lotus time again oooooooommmm.
Dropped bags upstairs and off to the tourist-oriented pedestrian malls. Drew some Sols from ATM, windowshopped, sightsaw the parks and hillsides, and dropped in to see a restaurant that some young fellow had begged us to visit, upstairs just off the strip. Didn´t look bad and there were a few people in and there was a hardly-believable 3 course set menu with choices. $7 each for a really delicious huge asparagus soup, trout and alpaca steak (sorry John) respectively, then chocolate tart, served with a complimentary pisco sour - the classic South American drink.
The decor was appropriately dim without being dingy, there was a crackling woodfire in the pizza oven, the waiter was very suave and efficient, his son (7-ish) deputised with great aplomb while he was busy, the music was unobtrusive yet interesting. "Satisfaction" stripped of the distinctive iconic guitar riff, slowed down and salted with bongo drums. Santana's "ïnto the night" - another music icon circa 1980 similarly reconstituted without the girly voice - recognisable but different. All in all a very pleasant laid back affordable interlude that went well with a nicely chilled Peruvian lager.
We went downstairs just as a small group was dithering over whether to go up and announced grandly as we swept past "Muy bueno" with a wave upwards that sent them surging towards the stairs. Must check that muy bueno means "really good".
Managed to get on the delightfully fast and free hostel internet to book some accomodation here and there then subsided into the best bed we have had over here for the first really good sleep since we crossed 3800m about 12 days ago.
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