12/3 Tiwanaku

Early brekky with the chaps heading off for their bike rides (good luck on the ´Death Road´) then we went off for our own Extreme Sightseeing at archaeological site some 75 km north towards the Peruvian border.  The Tiwanaku people were pre-Incan and not a lot is known about them.  There is a ceremonial complex, ceramic and rock museum.  Ceramic museum had lots of pottery, weapons, foodstuffs and agricultural explanations.  Most interesting was that a baby born breech was considered to be a Sharman (priest) because the head was usually elongated.  These children then had their heads bandaged to maintain the elongated shapè and at some stage of life had a piece of the top of the skull removed and a lump of gold inserted.  Lovely!  I can only wonder at how many died due to the operation or infection afterwards.  Mummies found here are in a fetal position because you should leave the world the same way you entered it.  The body is encased in a jute/string bag.

The second port of call was to see the monolith dedicated to Pashamama.  Enormous carved slab of sandstone which was located buried in the subterranian ceremonial pit along with a smaller contiki and 2 other large stones.  The walls of the pit had 170 carved heads protruding from the walls - very interesting.

The main pyramid is still mostly buried.

 The scarcophagos cemetery had large niches in the outside walls where mummies with the elongated heads were located, meaning that this was a sacred place for the Sharman.

 Then up to the main platform which contains the sun gate and a couple more carved monoliths.

 There also was very interesting acoustic rocks which were carved through in such a way that you would hear people talking at some distance or talk into it loudly and it amplified the sound. 

Seems the whole layout of all the constructions on the site is to line up with the Southern Cross constellation.  Most interesting. 

Lunch in a local small restaurant.  Soup, then Llama & beef steak - not the best meal but ok.  Trip back to La Paz with a nice view of the Royal mountain range and a quick stop at the viewpoint overlooking the city again.

Napped in afternoon.  Then asked if a couple of the light packers on Bob might be able to take some of our excess baggage until we all get to Lima.  Which a couple of people have been most gracious to do.Now we can travel a bit more lightly.

Dinner and bed.