25/10 All paths lead to water

Tuesday 25 October

The key to European train travel lies in the eponymous website kept by The Man in Seat 61. He gives all the details of how to deal direct with French Rail (in English) and get the best prices. We had our tickets sent to Perth 3 months ago and each paid E30 for Paris-Milan. The key to walking round Venice when it’s raining is to wear a visor, because those same idiots who drive supermarket trolleys over your heels and wreak havoc on the roads will blind you with the edges of their umbrellas.

It was a very pleasant half hour stroll round to St Mark’s Square on the Grand Canal.  The whole area is a pedestrian precinct . . not even a scooter. The roads are often very narrow, poorly marked and frequently dead-end at canals. A good rule of thumb is “follow the crowd”, although that doesn’t hold true on the way back quite so well.

St Mark’s was dry but there were platforms and walkways stretching hundreds of metres all round there, about 50cm off the ground. I couldn’t find the Bridge of Sighs and I suspect it was under wraps being restored. It rained almost constantly and the canals were choppy – I was glad not to be in a gondola.

Here’s another cracking good tip. If you don’t eat all your jambon et fromage in one day, just pop it out of the window (assuming you have a balcony). You can thaw it out in the morning and eat the rest.

J had a solo exploration day in the rain.  Set off in the general direction of St Marks.  Just followed the crowd really.  But then there were little alleys that just had to be explored and an open door that led into a courtyard, others were going in there, so I went in and had a peek.  So many bridges, so many canals, so many gondolas.  I was expecting a brown dirty colour water, have been delighted at the cool clear greenish colour.  After being told Venice smells I only found one smelly place down a tiny little side street, other than that it has been lovely.  People dart here and there and I just had to follow some as they bustled along alleys, going who knows where.

Now you see him

Now you don't

  I followed for so long then turned back to the main drag.  I had no idea where I was,  just loving the adventure of it all.  Found a large stone bridge, reading a map later on I discovered that it was the Rialto.  Went back inland trying to locate San Marco, so many small squares (campos) churches, statues, wells, sculptures on bridges and churches -  just brilliant.  It really doesn’t matter where you are.  Came to another bridge, still lots of people moving along so went with them.  Could see a nice church ahead and water so peeled off and went that way.  Large water way with buildings on the other side.  Where am I?  Turned left for no particular reason, not many people down here.  Fisherman cleaning fish, water splashing onto pathway because it is high tide.  Few art galleries just opening up for the day in what looked like old storehouses. Had a wander through those, never would have found them if I wasn’t lost.  Still have no idea where I am, but I think I am at the South of the Islands.  Got caught by a wave and one shoe is thoroughly drowned, it already was a cold day, now my foot is freezing. *giggles*  My path along the water was getting narrower and the waves kept coming in over the edge, so I turned north? wards, more canals, bridges, churches and the cutest buildings.  Then a more steady stream of people, joined in with them over a bridge to the most amazing church, such beautiful artworks and sculptures. 

Angle only way to get this in frame

 Then came to a point of land with a very tall, very white, naked boy holding a bullfrog. 

 Not sure if this is a temporary or permanent art piece.  Where am I?  Now I check my map and see that I am indeed on the south part of the main islands.  The church was S. Maria d. Salute.  Now I can see St Marks across the canal.  Followed the crowd again past the Peggy Guggenheim Galleries (closed unfortunately) over the Accademia bridge.  There is a tiny 2 storey house in the grounds of a building here, I think displaying that you can live comfortably in less space if you use if wisely.  It looked like a skinny dollhouse. 

 Kept moving with the crowd, now knowing that I am going in pretty much the right direction.  Came to a Vivaldi Museum in another wonderful church.  Full of a variety of musical instruments, very interesting.  Onwards through narrow streets and over more bridges.  Still raining but who cares.  Finally St Marks square.  Had a look about and took photos.  Didn’t go inside any buildings today, it is already 2pm and today has just been an interesting reconnaissance day.  Found ‘Bridge of Sighs’ but unfortunately it is completely covered by scaffold and screens.  My foot is now numb and the sock is very squishy so it is time to head back.  I have been wandering for hours.  Actually can see signs to Rialto bridge so follow them knowing I can pick up my pathway from there.  So many shops selling beautiful Murano glass, venetian masks and all sorts of goodies.  Really like this place.

Chris not at hotel so decide to scope out the shipping docks to find the easiest pathway to get there in 2 days with luggage.  We are very close and just past the train station there is a monorail that goes directly to the port. Yay. It began pouring with rain while I was here and I got a little wet.  Warm shower and a rest after all that.