Wednesday 26 October
Yes a baguette and snacky bits makes for an excellent picnic . . . but after a week you yearn for something hot . . preferably a steak. We have fended off temptation (unless you count the cheeseburgers ce soir) with the consolation that our luck will change big time tomorrow. We have just stocked up with our final croissants and baguette for the morning and after that it’s all Cunard.
The price of grog in Italy is amazing. We bought a 700ml bottle of Baileys in a supermarket for E11 and just added a 700ml Amaretto liqueur for less than E4 ($5). The same supermarket was clearing very quaffable 500ml Germania pilseners for 45c. Email me for the address.
Today “we” sorted some forward planning for Rome so we know what we are doing after the cruises. There is a hell of a lot to see and do there. Those Romans were a busy lot. We can leave the rest open until nearer the time.
J again set off for solo explorations of museums (not C’s favourite things). Raining again, the locals wear gumboots because of the rain and flooded streets, some hotels provide them for guests, alas not ours. Autumn is the worst time for high tide flooding. The narrow streets are full of umbrellas which makes for a colourful parade, passing each other usually requires 1 umbrella to be lifted way into the air while the other ducks a bit, looks like a carousel ride in Mary Poppins. I was very careful of puddles today. *nods* I could see signs to San Marco today and followed them and people, it is the people following that gets you lost. Some pathways were totally blocked with large volumes of water, an interesting sight, but not helpful in navigating. Lots of backtracking until finally I came to the waters edge near the bridge of sighs, not sure how I got there but never mind that. It is so totally underwater, so different to yesterday when it was only wet. Now I can see why they need the raised pathway and they are jam packed with queues of people. Decide to head to the Museo Correr which is in the Napoleonic wing. Buy ticket to this, Doge’s Palace and 9, yes 9 other museums. All for 18 euros, bargain, now just have to rush around to see them all. Correr is filled with paintings, sculptures and so much more. It even has 2 Egyptian mummies in the natural history section. The rooms in the first section are all very grand and lovely with Murano glass chandeliers but the icing on the cake is the Marciana Library. Very impressive. Huge canvasses on the walls and the most beautifully painted ceilings with each painting surrounded by gold. Spectacularly grand. Back into St Mark’s which is still flooded with water, took the raised walkway one way only to find that you needed wellies at the end of it as the water was still deep. Only seagulls and people with welly boots are in the square itself, everyone else is crammed onto the verandahs trying to get through to the next place of interest. It is quirky to see the café tables and chairs set up in the square with water up to the seats almost. It is about 12 noon and water is still rushing up through the drainage grates bubbling the water’s surface. Slowly worked my way to another raised walkway and got to the Ducal Palace, not sure what to expect here. Waltzed past all the people in the queue and showed my ‘9 museum’ pass. The far end of the courtyard is adjacent to St Mark’s and was the Droge’s private entrance to the Basilica. Upstairs and then into the golden staircase which has to be seen to be believed. This level has all the rooms used for Doges residence and the state courts (government). All magnificent, decorated by artists including; Titian, Veronese, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. You learn about the Council of 10, who handed down terribly harsh judgements which included torture and death of many people for, in some cases, rather minor misdemeanours. Over the ‘Bridge of Sighs’ into the prison complex, then back again. Has rooms full of some quite amazing armoury. The grand council chamber is said to be the largest hall in Europe, sumptuously painted and decorated once again, this room houses the world’s largest oil paintings, Tintoretto’s Paradise. I am sure if you are interested you can google for more info and pics as cameras were not allowed in here. I was quite blown away by this palace and have a crick in my neck from staring at all the ceilings.
It is now after 2pm and the water has receded. Into Basilica di San Marco (St Mark’s). While it is absolutely covered in shimmering gold mosaic tiles it is really, really dark in here. Best place to see the brilliance is in the entry area, maybe it looks better on a sunny day. St Mark’s body was smuggled out of Alexandria in a pork barrel and brought here, he is interred in the altar area.
Headed back to hotel and did really well until I took a wrong turn somewhere. Finally came to a large expanse of water again. Luckily the water taxi place had a map with a red dot showing me where I was, right at the north of the islands, so headed back until I finally found a familiar landmark and made my way back.
I have found it fascinating how people will be walking along the street and they just turn off into the skinniest of alleys as if they are going to magically disappear or something. Quirky.
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