19/10 KL - Batu Caves

Wednesday 19 October

Slept soundly with just a fan. Wandered down for breakfast Subway in our foyer. Set off for the Batu Caves. The man in reception said it would cost 70 Ringits each way by taxi so we decided to accept the challenge and go by public transport. We had found and salvaged a Kuala Lumpur guide book in China. It looked brand new and it said we should take a train to Putra and then change to bus to the caves. We announced this intention to the man at the station ticket office and he said No . . head one stop in the other direction and then change to a line that goes direct to the caves. Silly man obviously had not read the guide book. We were torn for some time but then discovered that there now is a direct line to the Caves. Guide book is a lot older than it looks. So we were there in no time for 3 Ringits each.

The terminus of the line was right smack next to Batu caves entrance.  How unspeakably convenient.   Wandered past a huge statue of Hanuman (the monkey god) and a temple in his honour.  Past a lake full of large fish which was surrounded by temples to the base of the stairs. Hundreds of pigeons whirling about, bit worried about receiving a message but we both survived unscathed.  To the right of the stairs is an enormous golden statue of Lord Murugan.  This is the largest statue of him in the world. 

We set off up the 272 steps just as it began to sprinkle.  Safely inside before the rain came.  Few stalls in the cave entrance make it feel a little tacky and not so much a religious site.  Temple cave is large and has a few openings in the ceiling letting in shafts of light and allowing you to see the rain falling against the backdrop of green plants.  Monkeys everywhere in here. 

There are various religious sculptures & temples situated around the edges of the cavern.  Not a lot of people about and would have been very peaceful if not for the squabbling monkeys.  J went up to the main temple for a blessing, which entailed receiving a little white flower, a white blotch between the eyebrows and a double daub of red and yellow immediately above that. It was very fetching and obviously impressed the Hindus in Little India, although by then it was slightly the worse for smudging and, truth be told, looked as though she had taken a .45 in the forehead.

On the way back, we felt marginally peckish and noticed a stall/pavement café selling mango rotis for $1.60. The sort of dish that just sets your juices running immediately. Better yet , he had chocolate rotis and even the royal fruit the durian – famous for its heavenly taste and hellish smell. We opted for a chocolate and a durian. Rotis are a sort of bready pancake and he fried  them flipped over and stuffed. Each was served on a stainless steel thali plate with side portions of dhal, curry and a garlicky creamy paste. The rotis were each sensationally good and combined brilliantly with the dips. We were left feeling we had eaten plenty and that our taste buds had enjoyed an exceptional treat. I could not help tipping him a couple of $, for which he was nobly grateful.

Throughout the day we found the Malaysians eager to assist and even volunteering their advice when they saw us poring over the map. We had liked the Chinese and found that they usually returned a smile but that extra English capability and,  probably, cultural affinity make a significant difference. Having said that, in 3 days we will be in France! Not sure how the empathy will flow there? Looking further ahead, a week later we will be guests aboard the redoubtable Queen Victoria, pride of the Cunard fleet. Janine has just got a new $3 watch and we are thinking in terms of passing as Chris and Janine, Count and Countess of Coodanup.

We took the train back, noticing that they have carriages reserved for women, apparently because of harassment. We headed off at a tangent instead of changing trains and wandered into Little India, where the stalls had started appearing for the evening trade. And what should thrust themselves upon us there, defying our strenuous attempts at resistance? . . . burfees!! Those delicious confections consisting of sugar, milk powder and various flavourings.  Apart from the sweet taste, the gay colours are just so typically Indian. It was just starting to spot with drizzle when we found our way back to Tune, noticing a Starbucks over the road and a shopping centre that promises the makings of a good dinner.

The rain hosed down while J sat comfortably in Starbucks, adjusting the blog and adding photos. Hayley had advised that the bank card fraud people were trying to contact me and the evening was dominated by the campaign to try and make contact with them. You have absolutely NO idea just how impossible it is to make an international call in this modern capital city. Consensus is I will have to trek across town to Bukit Bintang and look for a phone. The hotel has a credit card scheme that costs $20 for the first 3 minutes, or they will lend you a SIM card, which would be really helpful for anyone with a phone. All very worrisome. Have the Chinese Mafia got hold of my card details?